Sustainable appraisal of lipstick tree seeds (Bixa orellana)-based bixin natural orange colorant for green mordanted silk fabrics and wool yarns.

This research aims to optimize the silk and wool dyeing process using natural dyes from Bixa orellana (annatto) through response surface methodology. Central composite design experiments highlight the significant enhancement of color outcomes achieved through microwave treatment. For silk, the optimal conditions (80 °C for 40 min) with annatto extract yield a color strength (K/S) of 17.8588, while wool achieves a K/S of 7.5329. Introducing eco-friendly bio-mordants, such as pomegranate peel and red sumac tannins, enhances color strength. Pre-dyeing treatments with 2% red sumac, 1.5% pomegranate peel, and weld flower extracts for silk produce high color strength, with K/S values of 16.4063, 16.3784, and 12.1658, respectively. Post-dyeing, the K/S values increase to 40.1178, 17.4779, and 21.6494. Wool yarn exhibits similar improvements, with pre-dyeing K/S values of 13.1353, 13.5060, and 16.3232, escalating to 10.5892, 15.3141, and 23.4850 post-dyeing. Furthermore, this research underscores improved colorfastness properties, including notable enhancements in light, wash, and rubbing fastness for both silk fabric and wool yarn. These findings underscore the efficacy of the proposed sustainable dyeing methods, offering valuable insights for eco-friendly textile production.

Wound Dressing Based on Silver Nanoparticle Embedded Wool Keratin Electrospun Nanofibers Deposited on Cotton Fabric: Preparation, Characterization, Antimicrobial Activity, and Cytocompatibility.

Wool keratin (WK) protein is attractive for wound dressing and biomedical applications due to its excellent biodegradability, cytocompatibility, and wound-healing properties. In this work, WK-based wound dressings were prepared by depositing WK/poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) and silver nanoparticle (Ag NP)-embedded WK/PVA composite nanofibrous membranes on cotton fabrics by electrospinning. Ag NPs were biosynthesized by reduction and stabilization with sodium alginate. The formed Ag NPs were characterized by ultraviolet-visible and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and their size was determined by transmission electron microscopy and image analysis. The formed Ag NPs were spherical and had an average diameter of 9.95 nm. The produced Ag NP-embedded WK/PVA composite nanofiber-deposited cotton fabric surface was characterized by FTIR and dynamic contact angle measurements, and the nanofiber morphologies were characterized by scanning electron microscopy. The average diameter of the nanofibers formed by 0.1% Ag NP-embedded WK/PVA solution was 146.7 nm. The antibacterial activity of the surface of cotton fabrics coated with electrospun composite nanofibers was evaluated against the two most common wound-causing pathogens, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. The cotton fabric coated with 0.1% Ag NP-embedded WK/PVA nanofibers showed very good antibacterial activity against both pathogens, and 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay results showed good cytocompatibility against L-929 mouse fibroblast cells. However, the increase in Ag NP content in the nanofibers to 0.2% negatively affected the cell viability due to the high release rate of Ag ions. The results achieved show that the developed wound dressing has good potential for wound healing applications.

Integration Analysis of Hair Follicle Transcriptome and Proteome Reveals the Mechanisms Regulating Wool Fiber Diameter in Angora Rabbits.

Fiber diameter is an important characteristic that determines the quality and economic value of rabbit wool. This study aimed to investigate the genetic determinants of wool fiber diameter through an integration analysis using transcriptomic and proteomic datasets from hair follicles of coarse and fine wool from Angora rabbits. Using a 4D label-free technique, we identified 423 differentially expressed proteins (DEPs) in hair follicles of coarse and fine wool in Angora rabbits. Eighteen DEPs were examined using parallel reaction monitoring, which verified the reliability of our proteomic data. Functional enrichment analysis revealed that a set of biological processes and signaling pathways related to wool growth and hair diameter were strongly enriched by DEPs with fold changes greater than two, such as keratinocyte differentiation, skin development, epidermal and epithelial cell differentiation, epidermis and epithelium development, keratinization, and estrogen signaling pathway. Association analysis and protein-protein interaction network analysis further showed that the keratin (KRT) family members, including KRT77, KRT82, KRT72, KRT32, and KRT10, as well as CASP14 and CDSN, might be key factors contributing to differences in fiber diameter. Our results identified DEPs in hair follicles of coarse and fine wool and promoted understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying wool fiber diameter variation among Angora rabbits.

Making Yellows Last with Nitric Acid: Exploring Colour Permanence in Art and Knowledge, 1600-1850.

Nitric acid became commonly available in the seventeenth century. Since then, it held the interest of chemists, especially those interested in the art of dyeing. Due to what is now called the xanthoproteic reaction (from Greek xanthós, describing shades of yellow), nitric acid produces a stable yellow colouration in proteinaceous materials, such as wool, silk, and bones. The chemistry of this reaction is well understood today. Less well-known is that it held the interest of dyers in the past. Dyers considered the ability of nitric acid to give a yellow colour to certain substances a solution to giving materials a durable, that is, a lasting, yellow colour. Yellow, indeed, posed a problem in the art of dyeing. Before the discovery of synthetic dyes in the mid-nineteenth century, there were no organic yellow dyes with long-term colour stability. Using historical dyeing manuals and chemistry treatises, combined with our practical engagement with the processes they describe, this paper traces how, between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries, dyers explored nitric acid while examining the durability of yellow colourations. Based on these explorations into nitric acid, the chemical arts developed theories about the nature of colour, and about the causes for its relative permanence.

Organic-inorganic biohybrid films from wool-keratin/jellyfish-collagen/silica/boron via sol-gel reactions for soft tissue engineering applications.

Therapeutic angiogenesis is pivotal in creating effective tissue-engineered constructs that deliver nutrients and oxygen to surrounding cells. Hence, biomaterials that promote angiogenesis can enhance the efficacy of various medical treatments, encompassing tissue engineering, wound healing, and drug delivery systems. Considering these, we propose a rapid method for producing composite silicon-boron-wool keratin/jellyfish collagen (Si-B-WK/JFC) inorganic-organic biohybrid films using sol-gel reactions. In this approach, reactive tetraethyl orthosilicate and boric acid (pKa ⩾ 9.24) were used as silicon and boron sources, respectively, and a solid-state gel was formed through the condensation reaction of these reactive groups with the keratin/collagen mixture. Once the resulting gel was thoroughly suspended in water, the films were prepared by a casting/solvent evaporation methodology. The fabricated hybrid films were characterized structurally and mechanically. In addition, angiogenic characteristics were determined by the in ovo chick chorioallantoic membrane assay, which revealed an increased vascular network within the Si-B-WK/JFC biohybrid films. In conclusion, it is believed that Si-B-WK/JFC biohybrid films with mechanical and pro-angiogenic properties have the potential to be possessed in soft tissue engineering applications, especially wound healing.

The influence of selected factors on wool cortisol concentration in alpacas (Vicugna pacos).

Several internal and external factors can influence animals' hormonal activity. Cortisol level in hair and wool determines chronic stress, which is connected with the long-term HPA axis effect. Wool cortisol levels in alpacas have never been determined to this time. The study aimed to assess the influence of selected factors on wool cortisol concentration in alpacas. The study included 36 alpacas. Wool samples were collected during shearing in June 2021, cut with an electric clipper from the right shoulder and the rump. Wool samples were fragmented into proximal (winter-spring regrowth) and distal (summer-fall regrowth) segments. Alpacas' Heat Stress Index (HSI) for the summer of 2020 was 139.4, and 116 for the winter of 2021. The cortisol levels in the wool samples were determined with the General Cortisol ELISA Kit assay. The most significant differences in wool cortisol concentrations were caused by two factors: the wool segment (P < 0.001; η2 = 0.889) and the region on the body (P < 0.001; η2 = 0.876). Wool cortisol level was higher in the distal segment (referring to the summer-fall season) than in the proximal one (referring to the winter-spring season). It is suggested that alpacas can feel heat stress in summer (HSI = 139.4), which could influence higher cortisol levels in the distal segment. The wool cortisol level was higher in the rump samples than the shoulder ones. Therefore, it is essential in future studies that wool samples from all tested animals should be completed from the same body region. Differences among age and sex groups were also observed. Wool cortisol level was higher in older animals, as differences between age groups were observed in samples from the rump in the distal and proximal segments (distal, the rump younger*older: P < 0.001; η2 = 0.321; proximal, the rump older*younger: P = 0.007; η2 = 0.195). Males showed higher cortisol levels than females, as a difference between sexes was observed in samples from the rump in the proximal segment (P = 0.001, η2 = 0.271). This study emphasizes that various factors may significantly influence wool cortisol levels, which can be helpful in alpacas' welfare estimation using this hormonal indicator as a noninvasive long-term stress assessment method.

Molecular Genetic Characteristics of the Hoxc13 Gene and Association Analysis of Wool Traits.

Homobox C13 (Hoxc13) is an important transcription factor in hair follicle cycle development, and its deletion had been found in a variety of animals leading to abnormal hair growth and disruption of the hair follicle system. In this study, we used immunofluorescence, immunohistochemistry, real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR (RT-qPCR), and Kompetitive Allele-Specific PCR (KASP) genotyping to investigate molecular genetic characteristics of the Hoxc13 gene in Gansu alpine fine-wool sheep. The results revealed that Hoxc13 was significantly expressed during both the anagen and catagen phases (p < 0.05). It was found to be highly expressed predominantly in the dermal papillae and the inner and outer root sheaths, showing a distinct spatiotemporal expression pattern. Two single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) in the exon 1 of Hoxc13, both the individual locus genotypes and the combined haplotypes were found to be correlated with wool length (p < 0.05). It was determined the mutations led to changes in mRNA expression, in which higher expression of this gene was related with longer wool length. In summary, this unique spatiotemporal expression pattern of the Hoxc13 gene may regulate the wool length of Gansu alpine fine-wool sheep, which can be used as a molecular genetic marker for wool traits and thus improve the breed.

Spatiotemporal Expression and Haplotypes Identification of KRT84 Gene and Their Association with Wool Traits in Gansu Alpine Fine-Wool Sheep.

Keratin (K) is a major protein component of hair and is involved in hair growth and development. In this study, we analysed the expression, localization, and polymorphism of the K84 gene (KRT84) in Gansu Alpine Fine-wool sheep using immunofluorescence, RT-qPCR, and PARMS (penta-primer amplification refractory mutation system). Haplotypes of KRT84 were also constructed and their relationship with wool traits analysed. It was revealed that KRT84 was highly expressed in hair follicles, including the inner root sheath, outer root sheath, and hair medulla and at all six lamb ages investigated from 1 to 270 days of age. Three SNPs were detected in KRT84 exon 1, and they formed three haplotypes (named H1, H2, and H3) and six genotypes. Analyses revealed an association between haplotype combinations (diplotypes) and the mean fibre curvature, mean staple length, mean staple strength, mean fibre diameter, the coefficient of variation of fibre diameter, and comfort factor for these sheep. These results suggest that KRT84 is of importance in determining several key traits in Gansu Alpine Fine-wool sheep and that the gene could possibly be used as a genetic marker for wool trait selection in these sheep.

Spatiotemporal Expression Characterization of KRTAP6 Family Genes and Its Effect on Wool Traits.

Keratin-related proteins (KAPs) are structural components of wool fibers and are thought to play a key role in regulating the physical and mechanical properties of fibers. Among all KAP genes (KRTAPs), KRTAP6 gene family (KRTAP6-1, KRTAP6-2, KRTAP6-3, KRTAP6-4, and KRTAP6-5) is a very important member with high polymorphism and notable association with some wool traits. In this study, we used real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR (RT-qPCR) and in situ hybridization to investigate spatiotemporal expression of KRTAP6s. The results revealed that KRTAP6 family genes were significantly expressed during anagen compared to other stages (p < 0.05). And it was found the five genes were expressed predominantly in the dermal papillae, inner and outer root sheaths, and showed a distinct spatiotemporal expression pattern. Also, it was found that KRTAP6-1 and KRTAP6-5 mRNA expression was negatively correlated with wool mean fiber diameter (MFD) and mean staple strength (MSS) (p < 0.05). In summary, the KRTAP6 family genes share a similar spatiotemporal expression pattern. And KRTAP6-1 and KRTAP6-5 may regulate the MFD and MSS of Gansu Alpine fine-wool sheep wool by changing the expression.

Wool production and quality traits of pure- and crossbred Merino-type sheep.

Very little information is available on the quality of wool produced by terminal crosses out of wool producing dam lines. This study was therefore undertaken to elucidate the wool quality traits of four crossbred lines relative to Merinos and Dohne Merinos, which served as dam lines. Each dam line was mated to rams of their own breed as well as to Dormer or Ile de France rams to create four crossbred lines, namely, Dohne x Dormer, Dohne x Ile de France, Merino x Dormer, and Merino x Ile de France, in addition to the purebred Dohne Merino and Merino lines. Four rams and four ewes from each of these lines were reared up to one year of age under optimal growth conditions and shorn at the end of that time. Fleeces were weighed and samples collected for analysis. Neither sex nor genotype influenced clean fleece weight or clean yield percentage, but fibre diameter differed between genotypes. Purebred Merino had the finest wool (18.26 µm) and the Merino x Dormer cross the coarsest (26.01 µm). However, all lines still produced wool that could be used in manufacturing clothing, while fleeces showed good uniformity. The two purebred lines had the highest comfort factor (> 98%). The crossbred lines produced a similar quantity of wool as the purebreds, although of poorer quality. All genotypes except Merino x Dormer appear to produce wool that could be processed into garments, although the crossbred wool would only be suitable for outerwear.

Single-Cell Transcriptome Sequence Profiling on the Morphogenesis of Secondary Hair Follicles in Ordos Fine-Wool Sheep.

The Ordos fine-wool sheep is a high-quality breed in China that produces superior natural textiles and raw materials such as wool and lamb meat. However, compared to the Australian Merino sheep, there is still a gap in terms of the wool fiber fineness and wool yield. The hair follicle is the main organ that controls the type of wool fiber, and the morphological changes in the secondary hair follicle are crucial in determining wool quality. However, the process and molecular mechanisms of hair follicle morphogenesis in Ordos fine-wool sheep are not yet clear. Therefore, analyzing the molecular mechanisms underlying the process of follicle formation is of great significance for improving the fiber diameter and wool production of Ordos fine-wool sheep. The differential expressed genes, APOD, POSTN, KRT5, and KRT15, which related to primary hair follicles and secondary hair follicles, were extracted from the dermal papillae. Based on pseudo-time analysis, the differentiation trajectories of dermal lineage cells and epidermal lineage cells in the Ordos fine-wool sheep were successfully constructed, providing a theoretical basis for breeding research in Ordos fine-wool sheep.

Exploring genetic variation in potential indicators of resilience in sheep using fibre diameter measured along the wool staple.

Production animals are increasingly exposed to a wide variety of disturbances that can compromise their productivity, health and well-being. As a result, there is a growing need to be able to select animals that are more resilient to environmental disturbances. Fibre diameter variation measured along a wool staple is expected to contain information about how resilient sheep are to the disturbances of their internal and external environment. This study aimed to develop potential resilience indicators from fibre diameter variation, estimate their genetic parameters and assess whether these traits are genetically correlated across three age stages. The study used 6 140 Merino sheep from the Sheep Cooperative Research Centre Information Nucleus Flocks recorded at yearling, 2 years old, and adult ages. Eight potential traits were defined based on theory, literature and exploratory analysis, which were suggested to capture the animal's ability to resist, respond and recover from potential disturbances. Genetic evaluation of the traits was conducted using pedigree-based animal models. The traits were shown to be low to moderately heritable (0.01-0.33) when examined at each of the three age stages. The potential indicators were generally well correlated with one another within age stages. Further, the genetic correlation between the same trait measured at different age stages was moderate to high between yearling and 2 years old (0.35-0.94) and between 2 years old and adults (0.18-0.70), while slightly lower between yearling and adult estimates (0.09-0.62). These results suggest that selection for resilience indicators from fibre diameter is possible; however, further studies are warranted to refine the trait definitions and validate these indicators against other measures of health, fitness and productive performance.

Two mutations at KRT74 and EDAR synergistically drive the fine-wool production in Chinese sheep.

INTRODUCTION: Fine-wool sheep are the most common breed used by the wool industry worldwide. Fine-wool sheep have over a three-fold higher follicle density and a 50% smaller fiber diameter than coarse-wool sheep. OBJECTIVES: This study aims to clarify the underlying genetic basis for the denser and finer wool phenotype in fine-wool breeds. METHOD: Whole-genome sequences of 140 samples, Ovine HD630K SNP array data of 385 samples, including fine, semi-fine, and coarse wool sheep, as well as skin transcriptomes of nine samples were integrated for genomic selection signature analysis. RESULTS: Two loci at keratin 74 (KRT74) and ectodysplasin receptor (EDAR) were revealed. Fine-scale analysis in 250 fine/semi-fine and 198 coarse wool sheep narrowed this association to one C/A missense variant of KRT74 (OAR3:133,486,008, P = 1.02E-67) and one T/C SNP in the regulatory region upstream of EDAR (OAR3:61,927,840, P = 2.50E-43). Cellular over-expression and ovine skin section staining assays confirmed that C-KRT74 activated the KRT74 protein and specifically enlarged cell size at the Huxley's layer of the inner root sheath (P < 0.01). This structure enhancement shapes the growing hair shaft into the finer wool than the wild type. Luciferase assays validated that the C-to-T mutation upregulated EDAR mRNA expression via a newly created SOX2 binding site and potentially led to the formation of more hair placodes. CONCLUSIONS: Two functional mutations driving finer and denser wool production were characterized and offered new targets for genetic breeding during wool sheep selection. This study not only provides a theoretical basis for future selection of fine wool sheep breeds but also contributes to improving the value of wool commodities.

Green syntheses of silk fibroin/wool keratin-protected AuAg nanoclusters with enhanced fluorescence for multicolor and patterned anti-counterfeiting.

Counterfeiting is a serious worldwide issue that threatens human health and economic security. How to apply anti-counterfeiting techniques to textile materials remains a great challenge. Herein, we report bimetallic AuAg nanoclusters (NCs) synthesized by one-step reduction of chloroauric acid (HAuCl4) and silver nitrate (AgNO3) with wool keratin (WK) as reducer and silk fibroin (SF) as stabilizer. The strongest orange-red fluorescence under ultraviolet light as well as the highest zeta potential absolute values of -27.97 mV were simultaneously realized in the optimal proportion Au-AgNCs2 (WK/SF is 3/2), which was further processed to a series of anti-counterfeiting films by blending with SF, silk sericin (SS), and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). After successfully being numbered into fifteen colors, a dark blue-orange-dark red-dark blue cyclic fluorescent anti-counterfeiting color chart was designed. In addition, a two-Maxwell-unit model was constructed to assist with the microstructure analysis, which found that the formation of hydrogen bonds and the secondary structure transition from α-helices to ß-sheets during stretching were responsible for improving the mechanical properties and the two-staged fracture curves of films, respectively. Finally, a patterned and multicolor fluorescence anti-counterfeiting fabric application was demonstrated by combining the color chart and screen printing, indicating the great potential in textile anti-counterfeiting.

Are there differences in the adaptive profile of hair sheep and their crosses with wool breeds?

This study aimed to evaluate and compare the physiological performance of different genetic groups of sheep, by physiological variables and serum hormone levels, in a hot weather environment. Thirty sheep from five genetic groups were used: Santa Inês (SI), ½ Dorper + ½ Santa Inês (DO), ½ Ilê de France + ½ Santa Inês (IF), ½ Suffolk + ½ Santa Inês (SK), and ½ Texel + ½ Santa Inês (TX). The readings and records of physiological parameters (respiratory rate (RR), rectal temperature (RT), auricular cavity temperature (ACT), and surface temperature (ST)) were carried out at 7:00 am, 1:00 pm, and 7:00 pm, in 12 non-consecutive days. The collections of blood samples for hormone analysis (triiodothyronine (T3), thyroxine (T4), and cortisol (CORT)) is in four consecutive days. The environmental conditions of the experimental period caused a thermal discomfort in the sheep, but not a state of thermal stress. The thermolysis mechanisms, sensitive (ST and ACT) and latent (RR) processes, were enough to maintain their homeostasis (RT). The results showed that crossbred breeds presented a higher metabolism and were more efficient at dissipating heat through thermolysis than the SI breed. The crossbred breeds were efficient at dissipating heat through the elevation of body surface temperature and respiratory rate, mainly SK and TX, i.e., crossbred breeds, despite the wool cover, used thermoregulatory mechanisms that promoted lower variation of RT. The analysis of variance showed significant effects (P < 0.05) to the time factor in the responses of T4 and T3, and to the breed factor in the responses of CORT, T4, and T3. We did not observe interaction between the factors to any of the hormonal variables. Therefore, we can state that the effect of time was independent of breed and vice versa. Thyroid hormones presented lower blood concentration in the mornings (4.03 ± 0.82, T4; 65.08 ± 10.6, T3), increasing their concentration in the afternoon (4.60 ± 1.03, T4; 70.16 ± 14.17, T3). The thyroid hormones presented a normal circadian rhythm, with the exception of SK. Air temperature (AT) showed greater correlation with physiological variables than enthalpy (H) did, in the experimental conditions. However, H showed correlation with T4 and T3. The adaptive profile of the genetic groups under study are different, but the IF genetic group showed better performance under environmental conditions.

Effect of alfalfa supplementary change dietary non-fibrous carbohydrate (NFC) to neutral detergent fiber (NDF) ratio on rumen fermentation and microbial function in Gansu alpine fine wool sheep (Ovis aries).

Bodyweight loss and rumen microbial dysfunction of grazing sheep was a challenge for the sheep production industry during cold season, which were considered to correlated with under-roughage-feeding. Alfalfa is a good roughage supplementary for ruminants, which can improve grazing sheep bodyweight-loss and rumen microbial dysfunction during grass-withering period. This study evaluated the effects of alfalfa hay supplementary change dietary non-fibrous carbohydrate/neutral detergent fiber (NFC/NDF) ratios on rumen fermentation and microbial function of Gansu alpine fine wool sheep during extreme cold season. 120 ewes (3-4 yrs) with an average body weight of 28.71 ± 1.22 kg were allocated randomly into three treatments, and fed NFC/NDF of 1.92 (H group), 1.11 (M group), and 0.68 (L group), respectively. This study was conducted for 107 d, including 7 d of adaption to the diets. The rumen fermentation parameters and microbial characteristics were measured after the end of feeding trials. The results showed that the concentrations of sheep body weight, nitrogen components (Total-N, Soluble protein-N and Ammonia-N), blood biochemical indices (LDH, BUN and CHO) and ruminal volatile fatty acids (TVFA and propionate) significantly increased with an increase in the proportion of NFC/NDF ratios (p < .05), and the acetate and acetate/propionat ratio presented a contrary decreasing trend (p < .05). A total of 1018 OTUs were obtained with 97% consistency. Ruminococcus, Ruminococcaceae and Prevotella were observed as the predominant phyla in ruminal fluid microbiota. Higher NFC/NDF ratios with Alfalfa supplementary increased the richness and diversity of ruminal fluid microbiota, and decreased ruminal fluid microbiota beta-diversity. Using clusters of orthologous groups (COG), the ruminal fluid microbiota of alfalfa supplementary feeding showed low immune pathway and high carbohydrate metabolism pathway. In summary, the study suggested that there was an increasing tendency in dietary NFC/NDF ratio of 1.92 in body weight, ruminal fermentation, microbial community composition and fermentation characteristics through developing alfalfa supplementary system.

Smartphone-based procedure to determine content of single synthetic dyes in food using the Arata-Possetto extraction method.

The use of additives, including dyes, is common in the preparation of food products. The analytical control of artificial food dye content is relevant since some, such as azo dyes, may produce cancer and attention deficit disorders and hyperactivity in children. Consequently, the maximum permitted concentration of azo dyes in food is regulated by current legislation. Therefore, it is of interest to find simple and fast procedures for the control of these compounds. The aim of this study is to determine the concentration of azo dyes in food samples by the Arata-Possetto method - based on the extraction of azo dyes employing natural wool -, followed by the analysis of an image captured by a smartphone camera. After experimentally determining the optimal extraction conditions, the calibration curves for standard solutions of different food dyes and the color of the dyed wool were obtained. Results from dyed wool image processing were compared with the absorbance spectra of the solutions before extraction as measured by a diode array spectrophotometer. The spectrophotometric and the image processing procedures were employed to obtain the calibration curves for different food dyes, which were subsequently employed to analyze food samples. Statistical treatment shows that the results of both methods are comparable.

The history of the Coast Salish "woolly dogs".

DNA and traditional knowledge reveal the history of an extinct dog bred for its wool.

The history of Coast Salish "woolly dogs" revealed by ancient genomics and Indigenous Knowledge.

Ancestral Coast Salish societies in the Pacific Northwest kept long-haired "woolly dogs" that were bred and cared for over millennia. However, the dog wool-weaving tradition declined during the 19th century, and the population was lost. In this study, we analyzed genomic and isotopic data from a preserved woolly dog pelt from "Mutton," collected in 1859. Mutton is the only known example of an Indigenous North American dog with dominant precolonial ancestry postdating the onset of settler colonialism. We identified candidate genetic variants potentially linked with their distinct woolly phenotype. We integrated these data with interviews from Coast Salish Elders, Knowledge Keepers, and weavers about shared traditional knowledge and memories surrounding woolly dogs, their importance within Coast Salish societies, and how colonial policies led directly to their disappearance.

In quest for improvement of dyeing properties using agriculture waste: utilization of Oleaster as new bio-mordant for wool yarns.

Agricultural waste is an unwanted material that is not only unmarketable, but also has secondary costs such as environmental pollution. Oleaster, also known as olive Russian fruit, has various uses, but it also produces waste such as seeds and peels. Oleaster fruit and all its parts are tannin rich, which can be utilized as natural mordant. Improvement of fastness and color properties of natural dyed fibers is obtained by using mordant. The employing of this mordant is effective in reducing agricultural waste and the production of dyeing chemical waste. Reseda extract was utilized as natural dye to investigate the color characteristics. The study of the phenolic percentage of different components of the Oleaster fruit, including peel, seed, and flesh, showed that each of these materials can be used as natural mordant. The formation of physical bonds in the presence of all kinds of mordant was investigated using the FTIR method, and the results showed that their performance is similar and they are effective in surface treatment of wool. Investigation of color characteristics of the yarns showed that the color strength increases in the presence of mordant. Studying the fastness of yarns dyed with ISO methods showed that the samples have high washing fastness.